Nowadays, electric scooters are more and more popular than ever, and they make every short trip an adventure! They’re not as expensive or as complex as our other vehicles, but they still require regular maintenance. And you might run into some issues. Both major and minor problems may be encountered. Many common or minor problems you can fix on your own. If you have any specific questions, please send emails to firstname.lastname@example.org. We will reply to you within 24 hours.
My Electric Scooter Not Charging
Based on our data analysis, charging problems are the #1 problem for electric scooters. If your electric scooter is no longer taking charge, there is a good chance that you have one of the three problems outlined below:
Blocked Charging Port
Dust and debris can get lodged in the electric scooter charger port and cut off the current flow. Unplug the scooter from the wall socket and inspect the charging port by sight to see if there is any dust or debris in the connectors and terminals. If there is, remove the debris gently using a small stick (no needles or sharp tools). If the charging port falls off, or the wiring is broken, then the charging port needs to be replaced. Here's a video of the Charging hole off maintenance.
Once no more debris is blocking the current flow, plug in the charger and test the charging port. If the electric scooter is still not charging, then the problem is not the charging port.
The Battery Charger Is Defective
When an electric scooter is not charging, a defective charger could be the culprit. If your charging cable has a traffic light system, make sure the green light shows when the charger is plugged into the power outlet and a red light when charging the electric scooter. The illumination should turn back to green when the charging is complete.
That said, not all electric scooter chargers illuminate when the battery charger is plugged in. You might need to test the battery charger port's voltage using a multimeter. Kaabo mantis 8's charger is 54.6V 2A, So the test voltage should be around 54.6V, up or down 1.5V or less. Here's a video of the charger check
If the voltage level at the charging port is the same as that at the battery pack, then the charger is in mint condition. If not, you should replace the charger immediately.
The Battery Is Dead
Dead battery problems are a normal occurrence and not a cause for alarm. A deteriorating electric scooter battery pack will take longer to charge and shorter to discharge. It will repeat this cycle until it is completely dead and unresponsive.
The Mantis features a 48V 13AH Ternary lithium-ion 18650 battery that can last up to 25 miles on a single full charge. Electric scooters that are powered by Lithium-ion batteries do not experience a dead battery as often. A Li-ion rechargeable battery has 300-500 charge cycles and a lifespan of about 2-3 years. Thus, it won't develop a charge-cycle "memory" as quickly as a nickel-metal hydride battery.
Try charging the battery for a more extended period to get enough power for the scooter. But that is only a short-term remedy. The best solution to fix a dead battery is to replace it with a new battery pack.
My Electric Scooter Won’t Move
Sometimes you may find that the electric scooter turns on but refuses to move at all. Other times, the scooter moves but suddenly stops working. There are a couple of reasons why an electric scooter may act in this manner, including:
Power Switch Defective
A defective key switch or power switch may also result in an electric scooter not moving. You first need to test the power switch or key switch for proper mechanical operation.
If your electric scooter has a power switch, ensure it's properly turned on. The switch should snap onto position and turn the scooter on again unless it is defective.
If you are using a key switch, twist it between the OFF and ON positions a couple of times. If it snaps into both positions, then your switch is fine. But if it feels loose or lacks a positive snap-action feel to it, then you may be dealing with a defective key switch.
The best way to test the continuity of the power switch or key switch is with a multimeter. The on/off switch can develop faults that will need to be repaired or replaced by a technician.
The Ignition Fuse Is Blown
A damaged fuse is another possible reason your scooter will refuse to budge. If you carry more load than the scooter's maximum weight limit, go over steep inclines, or drive through water puddles and mud, a fuse may burn out,
First, check if the main ignition fuse is switched on. If not, turn it on and start the engine. If the scooter refuses to kick in, you may be dealing with a blown fuse.
To check if you have a blown fuse, pull out the fuse from its box and hold it up to a light to look for a burnt connection inside. You can also use a multimeter to check for conductivity. You'll need to have the broken fuse replaced by a professional.
Open Brake Switches
The brake lever switch is another possibility. Most electric scooters have normally open brake switches but some have normally closed brake switches. The brake switches inform the speed controller to turn the motor off when the brakes are applied.
To test for a faulty normally open brake switch, you have to disconnect the brake lever wire connector from the speed controller and then see if the scooter runs. If it does, it is a normally open type that is faulty.
Testing for a faulty normally closed brake lever switch, you must disconnect the brake lever wire connector from the speed controller, and bridge the two terminals together in the controller's connector that the brake switch is unplugged from. If the scooter runs when the controller's brake switch connector terminals are bridged together, then the brake switch is a normally closed type which is faulty.